When you think of Italy does your mouth start to water? Mine does! But truth be told, I didn’t have the best dining experiences the first time I was in Rome. I ate some rather cardboard-tasting pizza and bland pasta on too many occasions. I left the city a little puzzled about its reputation as a food wonderland. On that first trip I counted only one really good meal. Where was the creamy gelato? The chewy yet airy pizza cooked near a wood fire? Al dente pasta made amatriciana-style with fatty, delicious guanciale? Balls of risotto stuffed with cheese and fried to golden perfection? Sadly, I left with those questions lingering.
Thankfully though, I’ve gone back to the Eternal City over a dozen times now and have found great places to eat in Rome. It’s been buon appetito pretty much ever since. That first visit may have been a miss, but through careful study of blogs, travel articles, and trip advising websites, I’ve found many wonderful Rome restaurants to share with you.
At first, I thought the problem was that I was staying in the city center. You’re more likely to find Rome restaurants catering to tourists in areas where foreigners tend to congregate than you would if you visited restaurants in areas where locals live, but good culinary experiences can be had in the Centro Storico of Rome and its surrounding areas. Here are some of what I think are the best restaurants in Rome.
Gelato
There are two gelaterias in Rome that compete for my top honor—Giolitti (via degli Uffici del Vicario, 40) and Gelateria del Gracchi (near Piazza del Popolo). Both places serve creamy gelato that bursts with flavor. The fresh ingredients used in their gelato shine through. I love the dark chocolate (fondente), as well as strawberry (fregola). Caramelized fig and caramelized pear are other favorites of mine, as is coffee, caramel, and peach. Giolitti has a great patisserie and coffee shop, so if you would like a pastry with your ice cream I would recommend going there. They serve up sfogliatella that is amazing—light layers of flaky, buttery pastry shaped like a shell and filled with a sweet ricotta mixture. Heaven!
Pizza & baked goods
One way to enjoy pizza Roma is by the slice (al taglio). At some eateries, you will encounter huge rectangular pizzas where you order a segment by weight. You can order 200 grams for a snack or if you’re getting more than one kind; have them whack off more for a meal-sized portion. And by whack off, I mean they take a big knife and…whack…slice off a hunk of pizza which is then folded in paper for you to take away and enjoy. Antico Forno Roscioli (via dei Chiavari) serves some of the best in town. They also have delicious baked goods, since this is the oven (forno) branch of the many Roscioli eateries, which include a formal restaurant and a deli. I also highly recommend Pizza Florida (via Florida) by Largo Argentina. They have a good selection of various types of pizza to order by the weight and cheap prices per 100 grams. Grab several different varieties and walk across the street to enjoy the ruins where Julius Caesar was stabbed—now a cat sanctuary.
Another way to order a pizza is by the pie. In Italy, an entire round pizza is one serving size. The most famous is the Margherita which is simply made with tomato sauce and mozzarella—sometimes there is a sprig of basil. There are plenty of other concoctions to try though. Remember that peperoni does not indicate meat, it means bell peppers. If you want a spicy meat on your pizza, then order one with salsiccia (sausage) or salame piccante. Roman pizza has a thinner crust than Naples style—it’s wafer thin in Rome and incredibly crispy. I like to think it has fewer calories—although I have nothing to support that dream.
A place I enjoy is Pizzeria da Baffetto (via del Governo Vecchio, 114), which isn’t far from Campo de’ Fiori. In the Monti area (not far from Colosseum), there is alle Carrette (via delle Madonna dei Monti, 95), which serves up some of the best pizza in Rome at good prices with a lovely space out back for outdoor seating. Papo e Lula by Piazza del Popolo (via del Vantaggio, 22) earned two visits from Jon and I this year. Emma (via del Monte della Farina 28/29) had been on my list for years and it did not disappoint. The pizzas there were fabulous and I enjoyed the outdoor dining.
Pizza bianca is a “crispy on the outside and soft on the inside” bread that makes a great snack on its own or a nice meal when served as a panino. Some of the best pizza bianca in Rome can be found at Forno Campo de Fiori (Campo de Fiori 22). The bread is delectable and the sandwiches are fantastic. My favorite kind is made with mortadella (thinly-slice Italian bologna) served on pizza…the meat to bread ratio is perfection. They use only top quality goods and the price is really reasonable. Grab some fruit from the market in the middle of Campo de’ Fiori and you have an amazing lunch.
Pasta & Other Italian Goodies
For a nice evening out, I still recommend making reservations at Piccolo Arancia (vicolo Scanderberg, 112). Located on a small side street near the Trevi Fountain we found the service impeccable and the food tasty. We enjoyed our artichoke starter and each had pasta for our main. A bottle of wine from Frascati was a delicious accompaniment.
A newcomer to the Trevi Fountain scene (new to us not to the area) was Pizza in Trevi (via di San Vincenzo 30). Friends, one who is a Celiac, recommended the place and it did not disappoint. I had a my favorite—amatriciana—and Jon had a pizza. Make reservations as it gets crowded. Not badly priced for being right next to a major tourist spot.
Another place we have enjoyed several times is Ristorante Sora Lucia (via Rasella, 138) by the Trevi Fountain. They are a bigger restaurant and reservations aren’t needed (in my experience); these two things would generally scare me off, but we’ve found the food is decent for the price. I recommend ordering off the “specials” menu in order to get their better dishes. Over the years, we’ve noticed that fellow diners who didn’t order from their recommended daily menu (on a chalkboard on the wall) were sometimes disappointed. As an added precaution, I always ask the waiter if he enjoys the dish I’m considering. I’ve found them to generally steer me in a direction that makes me happy. Their liter of house wine for under 10 euros also makes me happy. (You may want to factor this into my recommendation).
Near via Margutta, between the Spanish Steps and Piazza del Popolo, is a restaurant we’ve dined at several times now for a couple of years and consistently enjoyed it—da Edy (vicolo del Babuino, 4). I’ve had various pastas over the years but my favorite is still their amatriciana.
Speaking of amatriciana, and honestly when am I not, for an elegant place to dine on tasty pasta, go to Matricianella (via del Leone, 4). The restaurant is located between the Tiber River and the Spanish Steps. It did not feel touristy at all. The food was very good, although a little pricier.
For posh drinks and a limited, but good, dinner menu, try Enoteca Spiriti (Piazza di Pietra, 32). There, you can enjoy outdoor tables overlooking ancient ruins and mix with locals right in the city center not far from the Pantheon.
Another restaurant in the Pantheon district that is good is Ristorante Maccheroni (Piazza delle Coppelle, 44). Watch as they cook your pasta fresh while you wait. In addition to tasty pasta, they have a nice selection of meat dishes for your second course—we enjoyed Chicken Cacciatore. Some dishes are hit or miss here, so definitely look around.
Not too terribly far from the Pantheon, but closer to Campo de Fiore, is a restaurant we added this year since we dined there several times—il Piccolo Vicolo (vicolo dei Chiodaroli, 16). Jon enjoyed the chicken breast in balsamic vinegar and I liked the beef steak.
For authentic food at decent prices, I adore Alfreda e Ada (via dei Banchi Nuovi, 14). They serve a couple of pasta dishes every night, a few meat dishes, and some sides. Everything they serve is seasonal. My favorites are the beef rolls and chicken rolls. Jon and I usually split a pasta for starters, each get a meat dish, and split a side dish—like chicory. The wine is decently-priced, too. Be there at least 20 minutes before they open in order to get a table (they don’t take reservations. Space is at a premium so be prepared to sit with strangers if you don’t have enough people in your party to fill a table.
Built into the side of a mountain constructed of the shards of ancient wine jugs, Flavio al Velavevodetto (via di Monte Testaccio, 97) serves up the best Amatriciana pasta that I’ve ever had. Perfectly al dente rigatoni is dressed with sauce comprised of salty guanciale, sweet tomatoes, and mild Pecorino cheese. It’s simply delightful.
While in Testaccio, you may want to check out the food market there. There are many delectable looking food stands, but I had a panino there that really hit the mark. At Mordi e Vai (via Beniamino Franklin, 12—yes that’s Benjamin Frnaklin street), I ordered the “allesso di scottona alla picchiapo” sandwich. Tender beef (I think it may have been brisket) covered with a sweet tomato sauce on pillowy bread hit the spot.
Another good sandwich spot with a few locations around Rome is Trapizzino. In triangle-shaped pockets of dough, they stuff succulent, tender meat. The choices change, but meats like chicken cacciatore, meatballs, stewed beef, and such are often on the menu. There is one near the main train station, Termini.
Sometimes a person can get tired of Italian food. Gasp! I can’t believe I wrote that, but it’s true. When you’re looking for something a little different, I recommend the Chinese restaurant, Citta in Fiore (via Cavour, 269), in the hip neighborhood of Monti. The restaurant has a reasonably-priced lunch menu and the best steamed dumplings I’ve had anywhere in the world.
When at the Vatican, you may want to stop by Hostaria Dino & Toni (via Leone IV, 60). The food is amazing and the service like no other. We weren’t presented a menu, but instead were offered different choices for each course according to what was on the menu that day. The pasta gricia was perfection with guanciale and Pecorino making a silky sauce for rigatoni. We also enjoyed an antipasto platter of meats, fried foods, and breads. A fried artichoke made for another tasty nibble. We were too full for the second course or dessert, but they looked great too.
If you’re in Rome during spring, you have to try Jewish artichokes (carciofi alla giudia). These are fried artichokes so silky and delicate that they do not resemble the prickly kind served in the States. Nonna Betta (via del Portico d’Ottavia) in the Jewish Quarter serves up some of the best. I love their delicate, flaky fried fish, too. It is a little more expensive than some of the other eateries on this list, so you may just want to have antipasto there.
You won’t find a lot of actual street food in Rome (food being sold on the street), but that doesn’t mean they don’t have it. You just need to look inside a shop for it. One of my favorites is a fried ball of rice called suppli. Supplizio (via del Banchi Vecchi, 143) serves up the regular kind with mozzarella in the middle, as well as different versions like carbonara or cacio e pepe (cheese and pepper). One is a filling snack, while a couple could make a like meal, especially with some meatballs (polpette).
These are just a few of my favorite Rome restaurants, but I’m continuously uncovering more great places to eat in Rome. Have you had a great dining experience in the Eternal City? Please share your favorite Rome restaurant in the comment section.
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Previous Best Rome Restaurants Blogs:
Rome Restaurants: Best Places to Eat in Rome 2023
Rome Restaurants: Best Places to Eat in Rome 2019
Rome Restaurants: Best Places to Eat in Rome 2018
Rome Restaurants: Best Places to Eat in Rome 2017
Amy French, Ph.D., is the voice behind Roaming Historian. A professional historian and seasoned traveler, she shares stories that blend history and travel to give readers a deeper understanding of the places they explore.
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