The Palmer House Hilton in Chicago is a haven for history enthusiasts and luxury seekers alike. This stunning 19th-century hotel immerses guests in a bygone era, evoking the grandeur of wealthy Chicago socialites. With over 1600 opulent guest rooms, this iconic establishment has hosted a plethora of notable figures, including US presidents, renowned authors, entertainers, and even royalty. My husband and I recently stayed in a one-bedroom king suite, which exuded sumptuousness. We were so enchanted by our stay and the hotelās history that I felt compelled to write about it. There are plenty of reasons to go to Chicago, but going to see and stay at the Palmer House is an excellent purpose to make the trip.
When my husband became mobility-challenged several years ago, we were worried that our historical travels would come to an end. Most of the hotels we loved to stay in and places we enjoyed exploring were not typically manageable for disabled people. However, we were thrilled to discover that the Palmer House Hilton is a fully accessible hotel, allowing him to explore every corner.
Some Hotel History
The Palmer House holds a significant historical tale that revolves around the love story of Potter Palmer and Bertha HonorĆ©. Potter Palmer owned a successful dry goods store; he partnered with Marshall Fields and was eventually bought out by him. Bertha HonorĆ© hailed from a distinguished French family; her great-grandfather, Jean Antoine HonorĆ©, reportedly enthused by Americaās fight for independence, had moved to the States a century earlier.
In a time when numerous suitors vied for Bertha’s affection, it was Potter who stood out by offering her something unique ā the opportunity to have her very own hotel. His gesture, along with his other attributesāhe was likely the most eligible bachelor in Chicagoāwon her hand in marriage. The couple married in July of 1870; Bertha wore a white satin gown by Charles Frederick Worth and the Palmer House was Potterās present to her.1
Tragedy struck when the Palmer House building fell victim to the devastating Chicago Fire of 1871. However, Potter Palmer’s resilience, determination, and good standing allowed him to secure a loan (on the precipice of a national financial crisis no less) and rebuild from the ground up. On November 8, 1873, the new and improved Palmer House proudly opened its doors to welcome its first guests.
In its illustrious past, the hotel also hosted the “Greatest Banquet in American History,” where Mark Twain served as the master of ceremony. During the festivities, Twain indulged in the celebration by drinking from an impressive silver beer stein, adding an air of grandeur to the already extravagant event. The stein is currently on display in the hotelās lobby. This 1879 banquet honored President Ulysses S. Grantās return from a trip. The Grant and Palmer families had become intertwined when President Grantās son, Frederick, married Berthaās sister, Ida HonorĆ©, in 1874. President Grant would stay at the Palmer House when in Chicago and Bertha and Potter were invited to the White House when in D.C.
The Palmer House Hilton holds several distinctions in hotel history. It was the first hotel to have lightbulbs throughout, making it a shining beacon of innovation. Additionally, it claimed to be the first fireproof hotel, offering guests a sense of safety and security at a time when fire had just devastated the city. The Palmer House also pioneered the use of elevators, known as inverted railways at the time, and was among the first to provide bathtubs and telephones in guest rooms.
The Palmer House Hilton stands as a testament to Potter Palmer’s enduring love for Bertha HonorĆ© and as a symbol of their shared vision for a remarkable establishment. Elements of love are placed around the hotel, like a statue of Romeo and Juliet one encounters when entering the building. Jon noticed the balconettes overlooking the lobby from the mezzanine which harkened Shakespearean romance to him. The Palmer House Hilton exudes its motto: conceived in love, nurtured in tradition, enduring through time.
Berthaās Imprint
As a leading Chicago socialite, Bertha took a keen interest in collecting art. During her life, she amassed an impressive collection of over 200 pieces of Impressionist art and formed relationships with notable Impressionist artists such as Claude Monet, Edgar Degas, Camille Pissarro, Mary Cassatt, Pierre-Auguste Renoir, and Auguste Rodin. Notably, she is thought to be the only American woman to sit for a Rodin sculpture. Much of the Palmerās art collection was amassed when Bertha traveled to Paris in 1891-92 as Chairman of the Board of Lady Managers for the Columbian Exposition (1893 Worldās Fair).2 Following her passing, a significant portion of her extensive art collection was generously donated to the Art Institute of Chicago.
Bertha had her finger on the cutting edge of style for the late 1800s and early 20th century and her eye for artistic talent and style left an imprint on the hotelās design that lasted after her death. The earlier Art Nouveau style, characterized by the influence of Louis Comfort Tiffany, can be observed throughout the hotel. Tiffany’s objets d’art adorn various spaces, adding to the hotel’s artistic ambiance. The hotel’s third renovation in the 1920s also incorporated the Art Deco style, which flourished at the time.
Bertha HonorĆ© Palmer’s influence extended beyond art and the Palmer House. She played a pivotal role at the 1893 World’s Fair acting as president of the Board of Lady Managers (117 women from every state and territory). She championed womenās work and innovation, advocating for a woman architect to design the Women’s Building and exhibiting inventions by women (there were 3000 patents by women on file in DC).3 Consequently, the Women’s Building was created under the guidance of architect Sophia Hayden. Bertha was so important to the Columbian Exposition that her likeness graced the tops of some souvenir spoonsāother spoons had the fairās namesake, Columbus, gracing their heads.
Bertha went the extra mile to ensure that women visiting the fair had a delightful experience by enlisting her chef to create a tasty portable treat for box lunches. This delectable confection consisted of a fudge-like cake covered in an apricot glaze and adorned with walnuts. It didn’t take long for this dessert to gain fame as the “brownie.” The culinary offerings at the Palmer House were so well-received that the chef eventually compiled a cookbook due to the constant demand for his recipes. Today, the Palmer House lists the recipe on its website and one can easily purchase a brownie to enjoy while taking in the artistic treasures of the hotel.
Features of the Hotel Not to Be Missed
The Palmer House Hilton’s lobby is a sight to behold, featuring exquisite artwork and intricate designs. The lobby showcases a ceiling adorned with 21 paintings depicting scenes from Greek mythology. Aphrodite, Apollo, and Pluto are among the prominent figures portrayed. A true masterpiece, Louis Pierre Rigal originally painted the ceiling; it was restored in 1996 by Lido Lippi, an Italian art restorer, who worked on the Sistine Chapel restoration.
Standing proudly at the entrance to the iconic Empire Room are two magnificent winged angel candelabras designed by Louis Comfort Tiffany. Each angel weighs a staggering 1.25 tons. The Empire Room, where renowned performer Liberace began his career, features Tiffany window latches and a resplendent gold leaf ceiling. In the halls of the hotel are pictures of the people who performed in the Empire Room and the years they performed. A good deal of the worldās talent, it seems, graced that dazzling Empire Room stage.
Including winged angel candelabras and window latches, Louis Comfort Tiffany touches can be found throughout the hotel; guests will notice the recurring motif of the peacock plume. This elegant symbol can be found on the keycards, carpeting, throw pillows, and other decorative elements. The peacock motifs pay homage to CD Peacock, a renowned jeweler whose store occupied the corner of State St. and Monroe and opened in 1927.
The House of Peacock had established itself as Chicagoās leading jewelerāwith customers such as Mary Todd Lincoln and Marshall Field. The sumptuous jeweler was a nice complement to the luxurious Palmer House. Everything was extravagantāfrom the jewelry cases to the Louis Comfort Tiffany bronze peacock doors to the detailed ceiling. The grand doors of CD Peacock are still on display, and the Palmer House’s sub-basement houses the jeweler’s vault, which now safeguards letters exchanged between Potter and Bertha, historic photographs, and china from the 1870s.
Visitors to the Palmer House Hilton shouldnāt miss savoring a brownie or sipping a Palmer House Old-Fashioned cocktail. After youāve checked in, look at the china case across from Potterās Burger Bar where the hotel proudly displays a china set used during the “Greatest Banquet in American History.” These exquisite dishes, adorned with 24-karat gold rims, crafted from Havilland bone china, hold a significant historical and monetary value.
Exploring the hotel further, one will come across the Red Lacquer room, adorned with Austrian crystal and garnet chandeliers. The opulent display of gold gilding and hand-carved friezes adds to the room’s allure. The Grand and State ballrooms, covering over 13,000 square feet, boast magnificent chandeliers and intricately designed paneling. On one cold Chicago winter day, I had a blast just roaming around the hotel taking in its history and exploring its nooks and crannies.
Accessible History, Accessible Hotel
One of the challenges that often arises in historic hotels is accessibility for those with mobility challenges. However, at the Palmer House Hilton, accessibility is at the forefront, which is impressive given it is a century and a half old. I was pleasantly surprised to find that even our room, which wasn’t specifically designated as accessible, was easily navigable for my husband, Jon, who is mobility-challenged. The hotel has made sincere efforts to ensure that guests with varying degrees of mobility can fully enjoy their stay. The hotel’s opulent public spaces, such as Lockwood and Potter’s restaurants, were thoughtfully designed to accommodate guests of all abilities. The staff was quick to accommodate our wheelchair, ensuring that Jon could comfortably navigate the dining areas with dignity. This level of attention and respect made us feel like valued guests.
What truly sets the Palmer House Hilton apart is its commitment to preserving and sharing its rich historical legacy. From the moment we entered, we were welcomed into a world of grandeur and encouraged to be part of its storied past. As we explored the hotel, we couldn’t help but immerse ourselves in its historical elegance. Indulging in a Palmer House brownie and sipping a Palmer House Old-Fashioned, crafted with liquor distilled exclusively for the hotel, allowed us to savor the delicacies of the past. Since Iām the Roaming Historian, we were even given the opportunity to venture into the tunnels that snake beneath Chicago’s streets, once used to transport coal to the Palmer House and perhaps even some illicit hooch during Prohibition.
The Palmer House Hilton’s dedication to accessibility and its commitment to preserving its historical charm make it a truly remarkable destination. The warm welcome from the attentive staff who welcomed us made us feel like VIPs throughout our stay and that the Palmer House Hilton was our temporary home.
Mark Twain wrote in Life on the Mississippi that Chicago āis always a novelty; for she is never the Chicago you saw when you passed through the last time.ā Chicago does change but the Palmer House has been a constant. Mr. Twain would find a differently designed hotel than he knew in the late 19th century but he would still find the Palmer House standing at the corner of State St. and Monroe. The fact that it has endured over a century and a half is a testament to it.
Whether you’re a history enthusiast, a lover of grand architecture, or simply seeking a luxurious and accessible hotel experience, the Palmer House Hilton is a must-visit destination.
Roaming through the Palmer House Lobby: https://youtu.be/jz80xtK0ux4
Elements of Love: https://youtu.be/b3kOInBU-7I
Hunting peacocks at the Palmer: https://youtu.be/DQtw7rauZbI
3D model where you can tour history of the hotel: https://visitingmedia.com/tt8/?ttid=palmer-house-a-hilton-hotel#/video
Hotel websiteās history: https://www.palmerhousehiltonhotel.com/about-our-hotel/
Things to Do in Chicago: https://www.viator.com/Chicago/d673-ttd?pid=P00161535&mcid=42383&medium=link&medium_version=selector
Chicago CityPass: https://www.viator.com/tours/Chicago/Chicago-CityPass/d673-2640CHI_TR?pid=P00161535&mcid=42383&medium=link&medium_version=selector
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